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Van Gogh, Cézanne and Renoir all poured their souls onto canvas in Provence, moved by the golden light over Arles’ red rooftops or the swaying olive groves at Cagnes-sur-Mer. Indeed, one of their hands could have conceived this land of lavender and sunflowers, of pale-stone churches and vivid Calanque blues. But paintbrushes are no requisite for a visit; it is merely enough to come for the museums of Marseille, France’s grand, gutsy second city; for Avignon’s history as a 14th-century papal seat; for the lingering sunsets over the harbor at Cassis; or for a game of pétanque in Saint-Paul de Vence, plane trees rustling in the Mistral breeze.

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