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Spice scents the air in Grenada. Aromas of nutmeg, cinnamon and vanilla waft on sea breezes, rustle the perfumed leaves of plantation trees, weave through the lattice windows of clapboard warehouses in which hessian sacks of the island’s prized produce are still packed by hand.

Spices, too, can be found in the kitchens of international chefs who are increasingly making this island their home, and in the oils and balms that greet spa-goers in its luxurious hotels. Laid-back and fun-loving, the Spice Island hasn’t previously had the cachet of, say, St Barts or Turks and Caicos, but as savvy travellers realize that actually Grenada has it all – from rainforest hikes punctuated with plunges into natural hot springs or cooling waterfall pools to a cracking August carnival called Spicemas – things are set to change.

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