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Once ruled by Mughal emperors and Rajput kings, India’s largest state is a regal sprawl of palaces and forts bracing against hot red sands sweeping in from the Thar desert.

Peacocks call from the top of Jaipur’s pink walls, water laps at the boats on Udaipur’s Lake Pichola and sacks of pink salt and cinnamon spill out in spice markets buried between Jodhpur’s blue-walled backstreets. Housing the oldest living fort in the country, the golden city of Jaisalmer sighs with romance, charpoy bedsteads lain out under the starry skies, camels dozing between the dunes.

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