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A saffron-robed monk rides past on a motorbike; in the flower market at Pak Khlong Talad, women thread marigolds and orchids onto garlands; in Chinatown, tight alleys sizzle with street food, sultry air soupy with steam and scent.

Bangkok’s street food has always been raved about, but in recent years the city’s gastronomy has been elevated several notches – it now has 30 Michelin-starred restaurants. Amid the flurry of everyday life, there are pockets of calm – wind chimes tinkling on empty lanes, temple courtyards with just the Buddha for company. The spires of grand royal palaces and temples rise above it all, like Wat Arun, Temple of Dawn, lit golden at night, its glow reflected in the waters of the Chao Phraya River. The longer you spend in Bangkok, the harder it is to leave.

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